ITINERARIES PROPOSED 

The mountain: always a meeting place for hiking lovers and not only. It is not only about incredibly beautiful landscapes, but also about the bond that arises between the people who meet and walk there. A gift for your soul that is passed on to your children or friends.

The Antermoia refuge offers you some of the most beautiful “mountain roads” divided by:

  • Excursions with departure and return to the refuge
  • Excursions with stops between the various refuges
  • Climbs

The Antermoia refuge is in no case responsible for the excursionist’s negligence or inexperience. In this regard, we invite you to consult this short guide that explains what the difficulty levels of the excursions are and how they are cataloged / shown in the CAI signs along the paths

Excursions with return to the Antermoia Refuge

From the Antermoia Refuge m. 2497 it goes down on the sent. No. 580 leading to the Passo di Dona which runs alongside the walls of the Sasso di Dona. Near the pass, turn right, following evident traces of the path, which lead to the back of the Mantello, whose top is an oblique meadow from which you have a breathtaking view of: Sassolungo, Sella, Pelmo, Civetta, Marmolada and Pale di S. Martino.

  • Difficulty: easy (E)
  • Travel time: 20 min.

The Forcella del Cogolo del Lago m. 2,650 is the point from which the easiest ridge routes to the top of the Croda dei Cirmei start. 2,902 and to the top of Cogolo del Lago m. 2,811.
From the Antermoia Refuge, take path No. 584, which leads to the Antermoia Pass, cross the entire Conca d’Antermoia until you reach the stretch that leads to the start of the via ferrata. Before turning left towards the attack of the via ferrata, you must abandon the trail path by entering the bottom of the valley at the base of Cogolo del Lago, cross and go up on the right of the steep detrital slope to the Forcella.

Difficulty: easy (E)

Travel time: hours 1:15

You can continue from here to the Cogolo del Lago m. 2811. There are no traces of the path, but the itinerary is easy. Go left to the North East ridge, reaching the top of rocks and loose stones.

To the Cima Scaliaret m. 2,889 for the Antermoia Pass m. 2,790
From the Antermoia refuge we take the set. N ° 584 to the Antermoia Pass m. 2,790 from which, on the left, the path that soon leads to the Scaliaret Pass 2,790 meters. The trail of the previous path continues to the right (O) and goes up the easy north ridge to the top, where there is a cross.

  • Difficulty: easy (E) 
  • Time travel: hours1.45

To the Cima di Lausa m. 2.876 – sottogruppo di Larsec
Beautiful summit with excellent views of the Antermoia-Molignon and Larsec subgroups, located on the north side of the Larsec subgroup, facing the Catinaccio d’Antermoia.
There are two recommended itineraries to reach it:

1) from Passo di Lausa m. 2.720

2) from Passo di Larsec m. 2.800

From Passo di Lausa, through Fianco Est:
dat the Antermoia Refuge, take path 583 towards the Passo di Lausa, after which you leave the path and follow the stony slope, heading north. The gravels then give way to a short stretch of rocks, beyond which we reach the gentle slope that leads to the broad summit.
Longer and more tiring route than the one that climbs from the Larsec Pass, generally used as a descent route, unless this is a point of passage of the tour which includes the Cime del Larsec m. 2,890 and Scaliaret m. 2,887, in this case doing it in one direction or the other does not make any difference.

  • Difficulty: easy (E)
  • Time travel: hours 3:00

From Passo di Larsec m. 2.800, through Fianco Ovest:
from the Antermoia refuge you take the sent. 584 towards the Antermoia Pass m. 2.769, after which you go up a short and slightly inclined slope of stones and gravels to the South until you reach the highest pass of the whole Catinaccio Group: the Larsec Pass m. 2,800, which opens between the Cima di Lausa and Cima di Larsec. From the Larsec Pass you go up by rocks and gravels to the top which you can quickly reach.
It is advisable to combine this excursion with those of Cima Larsec and Cima Scaliaret, to be done in a full day, recommended route with access from the Larsec Pass and exit from the Lausa Pass.

  • Difficulty: easy (E)
  • Time travel: hourd 1: 45 only to Cima di Lausa
  • Complete tour: hours 6:00

The tour of the Crepes of Lausa.
Very neglected route, because it is little known, but certainly one of the crest crossings that can be done without too much difficulty (only a small stretch of the first degree) and the most profitable from a landscape point of view.
It is the long rocky ridge (crepe = rock) that starts in the NNO with the Passo di Lausa and ends SSE with the Cima Sud beyond which the Spiz delle Roe di Ciampiè and the Torre Rizzi rise. Three are its main ridge elevations:

1)  Cima Nord m. 2.766

2)  Cima di Mezzo m. 2.746

3)  Cima Sud m. 2.678

To the Cima Nord m. 2.766 through Passo di Lausa m. 2.700
From the Antermoia refuge you take the sent. 583 leading to the Passo di Lausa m. 2,700, once reached, turn left (SE) going up a detrital channel up to the first crest elevation of the Crepe di Lausa. Then continue in the S direction to a Sella and continuing going up along the ridge you walk on a wide slope of gravels to the top.
If you want to continue from here to the other two peaks of the Crepes of Lausa you must reach La Forcella del Larsec not directly (too difficult), but descending on the left of the saddle previously made, which leads right under the gully of the fork itself.

  • Difficulty: very easy (E)
  • Travel time:  hours 2:30

To the Cima di Mezzo m. 2.746 through Forcella del Laresc m. 2.600
From the fork you must reach another small fork located beyond a rocky outcrop, which can be overcome by the ridge (Ⅰ ° degree, exposed) for the S rocks of the Forcella del Larsec. From this fork you go up by ledges and friable rocks (grado ° lower degree) along the slope that descends from the ridge, gaining the line to follow, easy and exposed path

  • Difficulty: easy (E) + a section of Ⅰ ° degree (EE)
  • Travel time: hours 0:45

To the Cima Sud m.2.678 through the linea di cresta della Cima di Mezzo m. 2.746
From Cima di Mezzo we continue walking along the grandiose ridge line with breathtaking views to Cima Sud

  • Difficulty: easy
  • Travel time: hours 0:20

To the Testone del Rifugio m. 2686
It is the first head of rock that rises from the Sella della Croda del Lago, one of the 3 rocky heads (Testone del Rifugio, Torre di Dona, Sasso di Dona) which rise to the southern end of the long Molignon – Croda del Lago chain and which make up the whole Sasso di Dona.
From the Antermoia refuge m. 2497 you go to the Sella della Croda and turn right approaching the base of the paretic which descends from the Cima del Testone del Rifugio. It then turns left to gravel ledges that rise along the rocky side. You approach a small fork between the eastern side of the refuge and the Torre di Dona and go immediately to the right, for easy rocks (Ⅰ degree) and easy gravel ledges you get to the top. Beautiful overview of Lake Antermoia and the Cresta Nera (Palacia), Alpe di Siusi and Sassolungo.

Difficulty: easy (E) + short climb ( a single section of Ⅰ degree EE )

Time travel: hours 0:30

To the Croda dei Cirmei m. 2.902
From the Antermoia Refuge m. 2497 take path no. 584 and go along the entire Conca d’Antermoia, up to the attack on the east flank of the Croda dei Cirmei. Although the itinerary is not particularly difficult (Ⅰ higher grade), it is tiring and demanding because there is no trace of the path, making the orientation difficult and in the first stretch there is a rocky jump to overcome.
The attack is on the left of the narrow gully that descends directly from the Forcella della Croda dei Cirmei. You overcome the rocky jump for ledges and exposed channels (Ⅰ higher grade).
Continuing along the steep and easier slope, sometimes with snow, you reach the last part of the grandiose East flank through friable and dangerous rocks to the top.

  • Difficulty: Ⅰ° grado (EEA)
  • Time travel: hours 1:20

To the Torre di Dona m. 2.705
From the Antermoia Refuge m. 2497 you go to the Forcella della Croda del Lago and from there take us to the Forcella carved between the east side of the Testone del Rifugio and the Torre di Dona you cross and pass a small opening, continue with an easy climb (Ⅰ degree) up to to the top.

  • Difficulty: easy(Ⅰ grado EE)
  • Time travel: hours 1:15

Excursions - Trips to the Refuges

To the Rifugio Vaiolet e Preuss m. 2.243 through Passo d’ Antermoia m. 2.769 and through Rifugio Passo Principe m. 2.601 sent. 584 ore 2.15.
Take path 584, which runs alongside the lake and enters the magical plain of the Conca d’Antermoia, at the end of which you go up towards the Passo d ‘Antermoia, which opens between the bold southern slope of the Catinaccio d’Antermoia and the Cima di Lausa. After crossing the pass, go down a steep path and gravels to the Passo Principe, where the refuge of the same name stands, and for a comfortable path, all downhill continue to the Vaiolet and Preuss refuges.
At the Vaiolet and Preuss refuge m.2.243 for the Passo di Lausa m.2.720 and the Passo delle Pope m. 2,617 path 583 only at the beginning and at the end of path 584 at 4.30.
Take the path 583 to the Passo di Lausa, from here take the homonymous valley and abandon the path 583, begin to follow traces of the path and the little men of stone until you enter the plain that at the beginning of the summer season welcomes the waters of the romantic Dry Lake. You enter the Larsec basin. Still following the stone cairns and you reach the Passo delle Pope, after crossing steep slopes you go down to the river and passing it on the left, following traces of the path, you reconnect to the path 584 that leads to the refuges Vaiolet and Preuss. From the Vaiolet and Preuss refuges it is also possible to continue for many other interesting routes: to the Re Alberto refuge m.2.621; to the Roda di Vael Refuge m.2.283 for the Passo delle Cigolade m. 2,561 or for the Mugoni Pass m. 2,647; to Rifugio Fronza alle Coronelle m.2.237 for the Passo delle Coronelle m. 2,630 or for the Passo del Vaiolet m. 2,549 (this itinerary has no path, the descent from the Passo del Vaiolet is demanding but not difficult in the 1st degree); to Malga Costa m.1.905 always for the Passo del Vaiolet.

  • Difficulty:
  • Time travel:

To the Rifugio Gardeccia m. 1.949 through Passo di Lausa m. 2.720 and Passo delle Scalette m. 2.400 sentiero 583 hours 4.
Climb up to the Passo di Lausa from here descend into the Lausa valley with its unmistakable lunar landscape, we are in the desolate heart of Larsec. Continue to Passo delle Scalette through the Secco Lake area. Having crossed the Passo delle Scalette, the descent begins facilitated by the presence of steel cables, the path is not difficult but still requires attention, until the path begins to be normally practicable on foot and in a fairytale context you reach the bridge of wood leading to the refuge. This itinerary is recommended starting from the Gardeccia Refuge, as there are no footholds to the Antermoia Refuge and from here, if the weather permits, you can continue and close the entire route in a loop, continuing for the Antermoia Pass on Passo Principe and continuing to the Vaiolet and Preuss refuges. From Antermoia, in fact, in case of sudden change of time, the path is dotted with refuges within a short distance of each other.

Difficulty:

Time travel: ore –

To the Rifugio Bergamo m.2.129 through Passo d’ Antermoia m.2759 and Passo Principe m.2601 paths 584-554-3A hours 2.
Head towards the lake and take path 584 to cross the entire Antermoia plain to the homonymous pass, from here you descend to the Principe pass. Continue down a gully to the Principe basin and along the sides of the narrow valley you reach the Bergamo Refuge, perched on a grassy terrace.

  • Difficulty:
  • Time travel: hours –

To the Rifugio Micheluzzi m.1.860 through Passo di Dona m.2516 and Passo Duron m.2281 path 580-578 hours 1.45.
We cross the Passo di Dona and Passo Duron and descend along the Duron Valley, an easy and evocative route that descends from the stones into the green meadows of the valley. Before reaching the Micheluzzi refuge there is the Baita Brach, known for its typical home cooking.

  • Difficulty:
  • Time travel: hours-

To the Rifugio Alpe di Tires m. 2.438 through Passo di Dona m. 2.516, and Passo delle Ciaregole m. 2.282 ed il Passo Duron m.2281 paths 580-578-555-532-(4-594) hours 3.
You cross the Passo di Dona, the Passo delle Ciaregole and the Passo Duron but instead of going down in the direction of the Micheluzzi Refuge you descend further to the left (NO) along a path that reaches the valley floor near the Malga Docoldaura. Here the Duron Valley starts to rise again and the small road that runs through it first reaches the Sella di Cresta Nera and then the upper stretch of the valley up to the Alpe di Tires Pass and the refuge below.
To the Rifugio Alpe di Tires m.2.438 for the Passi d ’Antermoia m.2.769, del Principe m.2.601 and Molignon m. 2,601 path 584-554 hours 2.45.

Take the direction of the lake on path 584 to the Antermoia pass, go down to the Principe pass, then descend to the junction which, with a long traverse, leads to the steep zigzag path that climbs to the Molignon pass. You reach a second saddle and keeping left for slabs and rocks you arrive at the Passo dell’Alpe di Tires and the homonymous refuge.

  • Difficulty:
  • Time travel: hours-

To the Bagni di Lavina Bianca m. 1.160 through Passo d’Antermoia m. 2.759 and Passo Valbona m.2.681 and Grande Valbona.
You can travel the entire Piana d’Antermoia past the lake and reaching the Antermoia Pass. You go down to the Passo Principe and from here, along the horizontal path that branches off above the Principe Refuge, you reach the Valbona Pass which is crossed and descends into the Grande Valbona, a path that is presented without difficulty, there are no traces of the path. Once in the Ciamin Valley you walk on a comfortable path to the Bagni di Lavina Bianca.

  • Difficulty:
  • Time travel: hours-

Climbs

Spigolo Fiorenza (Almo Giambisi and companion, sources: “The new guide of the Catinaccio” Antonio Bernard Edizioni Mediterranee)
Short bolted route (3 pitches) on fairly good rock, usable by climbers who stay overnight at the nearby Antermoia Refuge, perhaps waiting for dinner to be ready.

  • Difficulty: from 4a to 4c
  • Drop: m. 70
  • Materials: 6 rinvii; basta una corda da m. 50
  • Descent: in C.D. lungo la via

Testone del Rifugio m. 2.686
For South South East Wall (Carlo Platter and Corrado Riz Ciamorces de Fassa summer 1973, sources: alpine routes “Catinaccio” Dante Colli – Gino Battisti Tamari Editori in Bologna 1984)
From the Antermoia Refuge m. 2,496, at the base of the wall (hours 0:10).

1° shot: attaches to the center of the wall, on overhanging vertical rock (ch. cuneo), crossing to the right at the end to the stopping point(m. 25; A2 e Ⅳ; 16 ch. e cunei, 4 lasc.).
2° shot: climb vertically through a dihedral, crossing to the left in the direction of a pinnacle visible from the base(m. 30; Ⅴ; 5 ch. e cunei; lasc. 2).
3° shot: it climbs vertically with extreme nailing difficulties and a steeply overhanging wall (A3 e Ⅵ ; 17 ch. e cunei; di cui 2 a press., lasc. 7)
4° shot: continue for a crack and a dihedral with diff. of Ⅴ and Ⅴ + (m. 35; ch. e cunei usati 8, lasc. 2).
5° shot: cross to the right with a gentle step (Ⅳ +) up to a fireplace that goes up to a large niche (m. 35; Ⅳ+; 2 ch. lasc.).
6° shot: you exit the niche with a big split and with extreme difficulty
(maximum exposure) for 5 m. about. Then continue along the chimney above always with maximum difficulty
(m. 30; A2, Ⅵ e Ⅴ+; 9 ch. lasc. 3).
7° shot: with a delicate crossing continue to the left for m. 10 and you reach the base of a chimney which is passed up to the gray rocks (m. 30; Ⅳ; 2 ch. lasc.).
8° shot: go up along the right corner with diff. of Ⅲ and earn the top.
Difficulty: Ⅵ, A2 e A3
Drop: m. 240 ca
Time travel: never repeated

Torre di Dona ( T. Dülfer ) m. 2.705, fsources: “The new guide of the Catinaccio” Antonio Bernard Edizioni Mediterranee 2008.
It is the first ever ascent of H. Dülfer in the Dolomites; for this reason the proposal of the well-known mountaineer Almo Giambisi to dedicate this small tower to the great German mountaineer; Side N: pass. by 5 °, 29 – 7 – 1911
Almo Giambisi himself made the first repetition together with Gigio Tait where he found intact the little man made by Dülfer and placed on the top
.
Sasso di Dona m. 2.760
For Parete Est (don T. Soraruf, don Giacomo, nel 1.928)

  • Difficulty: Ⅲ+
  • Drop: m. 250
  • Time travel: hours 2:30

For Parete Sud Est (E. Hermann e H. Leitget il 21 – 7 – 1929)

  • Difficulty:
  • Drop: m. 200
  • Time travel: hours1:30

Torre del Lago m. 2.762
Yellow tower clearly visible from the Antermoia refuge
For South Wall (H. Dülfer on 07/30/1911)

  • Difficulty:
  • Drop: m. 200 ca
  • Time travel: hours 2:00

Croda del Lago m. 2.816
Beautiful peak overlooking the lake of Antermoia, characterized by yellow walls, with unfortunately friable rock.
Here you can find some modern routes of the Val di Fassa alpine guides.
Via Dülfer (par. Sud), sources: “The new guide of the Catinaccio” Antonio Bernard Edizioni Mediterranee 2008.
H. Dülfer, H. Kammerer, 07/30/1911.
The original route of this route has been repeated perhaps 3 times, a route that has an almost incredible stretch of 6 ° for those times. if you want to repeat it, know how to regulate yourself: this route not only holds the “record” of the perhaps most difficult passage hitherto overcome in the Dolomites, but also a couple of pitches which are among the most friable (but not the 6th one) that can be find in this group.

  • Difficulty: TD ( 4°, 5°, m.8 di 6° )
  • Drop: m. 250
  • Tempo di percorrenza: from the begin10 min.
  • Climb: hours 3:30 / 4:00
  • Materials: nails for stops, nuts, friends and tapes; 6 sufficient referrals

Report: from the antermoia refuge to a fireplace placed between the wall and a rib leaning against that (attack)
Descent: from the descending peak through the ridge overlooking the lake (South Ridge), up to a saddle; descend again, until you can cross downhill to the right. For rocks, ledges and fireplaces you can reach, passing under overhangs, the gully between the Croda del Lago and the Testone della Forcella (1st and 2nd friable)
.

Catinaccio d’Antermoia m. 3004
E’ la cima più alta del gruppo, sovraffollata lungo le sue vie ferrate. Salita per la prima volta nel 1872 dalla guida A. Bernard, C. C. Tucker e T. H. Carson, lungo un percorso che ricalca, a parte i primi 100 m., l’attuale ferrata da Ovest.
Camini Dülfer ( camini S. E. ), fonti: ” La nuova guida del Catinaccio ” Antonio Bernard Edizioni Mediterranee 2008.
H. Dülfer, W. Schaarschmidt, il 18/07/1912.
Via interessante nella prima metà, soprattutto per alcuni curiosi passaggi in camino. La seconda parte, però, presenta una roccia di qualità abbastanza modesta, specialmente sulla variante di sinistra.

  • Difficulty: D ( 3°, 4°, pass. di 4°+ )
  • Drop: m. 250
  • Time travel: 1 hour from the refuge
  • Climb: hours 2:30 / 3:30
  • Descent: 40 min.

Material: a few nails for stops (can be improved); useful friends and dice; 6 referrals
Report: from the Antermoia Pass, climb to the highest point of the gravels, slightly to the right.
Diedro Dülfer (par. Sud), sources: “The new guide of the Catinaccio” Antonio Bernard Edizioni Mediterranee 2008.
H. Dülfer, alone, on 07/18/1914.
Historic route that overcomes, with very interesting climbing, a yellow dihedral with a very beautiful line. It allows you to revisit the splendid creation of Dülfer, at the maximum difficulty limits in relation to the time, moreover reached alone. The rock is quite good in the most difficult first half, while it expires subsequently, with the gradual reduction of the difficulties.

  • Difficulty: TD- ( 4°, 5°, pass. di 5°+ )
  • Drop: m. 250
  • Ttime travel: 1 hour from the refuge
  • Climb: hours 2:30 / 3:30
  • Descent: 40 min.
  • Materials: useful, not essential, a few nails to improve stops; 6 – 8 referrals

Report: attack a little before the Antermoia Pass, just to the left of a plaque, below the vertical of the dihedral
Descent: for one of the two “ferratas”

Polentòn m.2743, sources: alpine itineraries “Larsec cliffs Catinaccio Group” Dante Colli – Gino Battisti Tamari Editori in Bologna 1982.
Round dome that is located in N. E. delle Crepe di Lausa from which the Forcella d’Antermoia divides it. Its large mass goes to S. E. and is interposed between the Rio d’Antermoia and the Busa di Lausa. It is supported by a gigantic base that overlooks the Val Udai.

For the northern edge, sources: Alpine itineraries “Larsec cliffs Catinaccio group” Dante Colli – Gino Battisti Tamari Editori in Bologna 1982.
R. Melchiori e G. Leitgeb e H. Kiene il 14/07/1929.
From the Antermoia Refuge m. 2496, follow the path for a short stretch to the Passo di Dona, then descend to the left on the left of the Rio d’Antermoia and finally cross to the south to go up the opposite side of the valley to the base of the corner of the Polentòn which looks the Antermoia refuge. It bends to the left, attaches to the right (O) of the steps of the corner; finally you cross on a large gravel ledge and you reach the top.

  • Difficulty:
  • Drop: m. 250
  • Time travel: hours2. 30
  • Descent: dat the top go down to the wide backrest E. S. E, in the direction of Val di Fassa, until a green fork appears above the steep right above the steep jumps. Traverse to the right, high, without descending further to reach the saddle. Then for rocks and ledges, short jumps, always going to the right, face downstream, you reach the easy final rocks. The final recess of the wall is avoided by pushing forward to the right. We touch the S. E. slopes at the foot of the Polentòn, called Paréi di Lausa, 1 hour.

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RIFUGIO ANTERMOIA

Vallon d’Antermoia, 38031 Mazzin – Val di Fassa (Trento) Italia

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